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DIY -
All our floors are delivered with full step by step
DIY instructions. We can also gladly send you the ncwf's Real Wood
Floors User's Guide with detailed information about the preparation,
fitting and maintenance of our floors.
Fitting Service -
Natural Choice Wood Floors operates nationwide on a
supply only basis, which means we do not fit the floors, we only supply
our customers with materials. In Southern England we can also
offer a supply and fit service at very competitive prices, using our
very own highly skilled flooring contractors. Please
contact us for details.
If
you require a fitting service outside our fitting area we
suggest you contact your local specialist wood flooring installer, who can
be found in the Yellow Pages under Flooring Services.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR EASY INSTALLATION
Use a
sufficient number of wedges to maintain the gap and to press the boards
together. It is preferable to lay the boards in the direction of incoming
light. When placing the boards on top of a wooden floor, we recommend that
you lay them crosswise. Start from a solid wall with the groove of the
first row of boards facing the wall.
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1. Use a
guideline to check that the row is straight. If the starting wall is
not straight, draw a line matching the shape of the wall on the
boards and saw them into that shape. |
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2a. Start the next row with a
piece left over from the previous board. The end joints of boards
in adjoining rows should be at least 50cm
apart. |
| 2b. Apply glue to the entire joint. Apply
glue to the groove of the board through the nozzle but remember to
keep the bottom of the groove clean. (Consumption of glue approx.
10-15mē/ litre) |
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| 3. Use a
30-40cm striking block to close the tongue-and-groove joints. Never
force the boards together. Place the board as shown in the picture
above and work towards the end joint. This way you can ensure that
the crosswise joint is tight. |
Pipe penetrations
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| 4. Cut
the board to correct length. Place it on top of the board you fitted
last. Using a right angle, mark the pipe diameter on the board.
Measure the distance of the pipe from a fitted board and mark it on
the board to be drilled. Mark the position of the other pipes in a
similar fashion, by moving the board to be drilled on the other side
of the pipes. Mark the centres of the pipes. |
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5. Drill
holes for the pipes using a drill bit 20mm larger in diameter than
the pipes. Use a compass saw to saw off the piece that will be
placed behind the pipes. Hold the saw at an approximately 45° angle,
also when sawing between the holes. Put the board in place. Apply
glue on all sides of the loose piece and place it behind the
pipes. |
Laying the last board
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6. Place the last board exactly on top of the one laid
last. Take a short, tongued piece of board, press the tongued side
against the wall and draw a line onto the board underneath following
the edge. Saw the board along this line.
7. Tighten the board in place using a
crowbar or other suitable implement. Use some protection between the
wall and the tool. Insert wedges. |
Door frames
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| 8. Architraves, and sometimes even door-frames, need to
be shortened. To do this, place a loose floorboard on the floor by
the frame. Make sure you have the same levelling material under this
board as elsewhere to get the correct height. Saw through the
architraves using the board as base to make sure the board will fit
under it. |
Skirting
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| 9.
Remove all wedges. Place a piece of board on top of the skirting
diagonally towards the floor. Press the skirting down with your knee
and nail it into place. Be careful not to tighten the skirting too
much, or it will "lock" the floor into
place. |
Thresholds
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| 10.
Remember to leave room for expansion under thresholds as well. To do
this, remove a piece of the threshold, or fit in a suitable
threshold or edging strip. |
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